There is little doubt organics are no longer a hippie thing - they've gone mainstream. My mother-in-law now buys organic carrots. Wow. On a recent trip to California, I was amazed to find entire grocery markets dedicated to organic produce - from crackers to celery to cleaning products. The selection was incredible. In Quebec, we don't seem to have embraced organics to quite the same degree, but the growing organic section in my local Loblaws tells me more and more people must be making it a priority.
But what's up with organic wine?
I receive quite a few emails from people asking about them: Why aren't there more available? Is it true they are better for you? Are they any good?
There is a lot of confusion surrounding organics in wine. Part of the problem is that there is not a universal standard as to what exactly constitutes organic. Competing certification agencies in different countries have different criteria. This means the organic wine industry has yet to speak with a unified voice, leading to misconceptions about the wines. And this confusion is not only a problem for the consumer. I know of a number of winemakers who, even if they are using organic methods, don't mark it on the label. We'll get to why in a second, but first here is my take on organic wine.
THE HEALTH ISSUE
Organic certification is about grape-growing. It is about the agricultural side of winemaking. For most of the certification agencies, it has nothing to do with the way a wine is made. Many people are under the false impression that by buying an organic wine, they are getting fewer sulphites or other additives. While this may be the case with some of them, buying organic does not necessarily guarantee a "purer" wine.
Look closely at the label: Organically certified wines mention "vin issu de raisins de
l'agriculture biologique," or "wine made with organically grown grapes."
This does not mean your wine is organic; it means the grapes were grown organically.
In the United States, an organic wine is defined as a wine made with 100-per-cent organic grapes and without any added sulphites. While the health risks associated with sulphites are not completely understood, there are some people who do have allergic reactions to them, which often result in headaches. An easy way to see if you have this intolerance is to eat something high in natural sulphites, like dried apricots.
But all wines contain sulphites; they are a natural product of the fermentation process. So, even those rare wines with no added sulphites will contain small amounts. For the majority of wines on the market, sulphur dioxide is added to prevent yeast and bacteria from spoiling your wine. This means the wines are more stable and, thus, transport better and have a longer shelf life. There are some excellent wines made with little or no sulphite additions, but they are only available via private importation. Because of their relative instability, wines with no added sulphites are rare at the SAQ
What organic certification does guarantee is that the grapes used in making your wine were grown with no synthetic fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides. It also allows for only environmentally friendly, non-toxic cleaning agents to be used in the winemaking facility. While there are small health issues with respect to residual pesticides and fungicides in the wine, those grape growers who use these chemicals usually reduce spraying when they get closer to harvest.
One reason to choose organically grown wine, much like any fruit or vegetable, is that it is much more environmentally responsible. Soils enriched with natural compost require less water than those enriched with chemical fertilizers. Runoff from farms that use chemical fertilizers have led to water systems choked with algae blooms feeding on the excess nitrogen. I could go on and on, as the list is long and rather damning.
The end result of years of chemical farming is soil that is effectively barren: These chemicals gradually destroy microbial organisms, resulting in a progressive degradation of the soil's natural ability to support healthy plant growth. It becomes a vicious circle, as harmful insects become resistant to pesticides, requiring even stronger chemical interventions. The weakened vine also is less able to battle against fungal and other bacterial attacks.
Going organic creates greater biodiversity in the fields. Natural composting creates a balanced microbiology in the soil, a balance between insect pests and those bugs and birds that eat them.
Pesticides simply kill everything, the good and the bad. A number of winemakers have mentioned to me that after a couple of years of organic methods, their vines have become more resistant to both disease and insect infestations.
Mike Marler, owner of Quebec winery Les Pervenches in Farnham, recently received his organic certification. He says going completely organic has forced him to re-examine the way he farms. Instead of simply reacting to problems like fungal infections by spraying his vines, he now looks at the symptoms. In doing this - by changing the way he prunes, for example - the need to intervene is lessened.
And healthier vines mean healthier fruit. But does it make for better wine?
Are organic wines any good?
I drink them all the time. In fact, many of my favourite wines are organically grown, and if you look at many of the world's best wines, especially in France, the majority of the grapes are either organically or biodynamically grown. (I will go into detail about biodynamics in two weeks.) Here are but a few: Romanée Conti, Mas de Daumas Gassac, Domaine Huet, Domaine Gauby, Domaine de la Moussière, Domaine l'Ecu, Deiss, Zind-Humbrecht, Weinbach, Ostertag, Tissot and Chapoutier. The Niagara's latest star, Clos Jordanne, also is organically farmed.
Many of these wines, unfortunately, are not even labelled organic.
Why?
Some because the makers don't want the restrictions or the cost associated with certification, others because they have always been made that way, while others don't want to be pigeonholed as "organic wine."
When I asked Marler why he went and got certified, he said "it was out of respect for others who have gone through the process."
agree.
If organic wine has an image problem, it is not because the wines are bad - it's because many of the best producers are not vocal enough about supporting the movement.
For many winemakers I have talked with, the real reason to go organic is that it does make better wines. The whole idea of a wine representing its "terroir" means the wine must authentically reflect that mix of the soil, climate and tradition of the place where it was made. If that is true, grapes grown from sterile earth can never produce great wine.
A SAMPLING OF ORGANIC WINES
Bordeaux Supérieur 2005, Château Couronneau. France red, $15.60, SAQ
# 10667301. If your problem with inexpensive merlot is that it can be too linear, too simple, here is a wine to make you rethink your prejudice. The fruit is there, dark and slightly cooked. This wine revels in its earthiness - black licorice, coffee and a hint of tar. The tannins are still rather firm, so if you drink this now, give it at least a half-hour in a carafe. A fantastic Bordeaux available as part of the general SAQ repertory, and organically grown grapes to boot! Drink now-2012. Food pairing: Lamb or other strong flavoured meat.
Riesling 2005, Réserve, Domaine Fernand Engel. France white, $15.75, SAQ
# 10518591 If organic wine has a reputation for being expensive, this proves that reputation false. A very good entry-level riesling that, if I had a complaint, is a little fat, perhaps too ripe. But I am a freak - I dig that diesel, fermented mineral smell that turns most people off Alsace riesling. This is pretty and refreshing, with hints of lemons, limes and peaches. Great buy for $15. Drink now-2009. Food pairing: Apéritif, seafood pasta in cream sauce.
Corse-Porto Vecchio 2005, Domaine de Torraccia. France red, $18.55, SAQ
# 860940. This blend of nielluccio (sangiovese), grenache and syrah just screams organic. What do I mean? Like many newer-generation winemakers, Christian Imbert puts all the emphasis on the fruit, the spice. There is no oak to mask the perfectly ripe strawberries and raspberries, floating in a cinnamon-infused Poire William. It has an admirable freshness, so much so that while it might even feel thin to some, it is a style of wine I appreciate more and more. Serve slightly chilled. Drink now-2010. Food pairing: Couscous with merguez sausage.
llages 2004, Combe d'Enfer, Château Signac. France red, $18.80, SAQ # 917823. A very decent torque on this classic Rhône blend dominated by grenache and syrah. I was taken aback a bit by its generous bouquet: dark plums, red cherries, mixed notes of thyme and sage. Very pretty while at the same time quite substantial, rich and voluminous in the mouth. An excellent wine, and if you want one with a touch more complexity, try their Cuvée Terra Amata, $24.60, SAQ # 917815. Drink now-2011. Food pairing: Deer, pepper steak.
Merlot 2005, Mendocino County, Bonterra. California red, $20.80, SAQ # 897645. Blended with small amounts of syrah, petit sirah and cabernet sauvignon, this is a beautiful example of Californian winemaking. Is it the organic farming, the blending of the grapes or the vineyard location? What I do know is it is gorging with ripe cherries and plums, infused with pepper and sweeter spices, a hint of chocolate, nougat, and all framed by soft but very
real tannin. Drink now-2012. Food pairing: Filet mignon, any braised beef dish and stews.
Viognier 2006, North Coast, Bonterra. California white, $23.70, SAQ
# 898767. Good viognier starts sharp but with a perfumed exoticism, and then like a honey-coated knife gets richer and goes on and on and on. While the Côtes du Rhône's Condrieu is the reference for this great grape, it is attempted by many throughout the world - and many fail miserably. But once again Bonterra does it, organically and with its own laid-back California style, with notes of apricot and ripe peach on the attack and a long, rich, honeyed finish. Drink now. Food pairing: Lobster, white meats.
Source: The Gazette